LG Washer tE indicates a thermistor or water temperature sensing problem, usually caused by a failed thermistor or a loose wiring connection between the sensor and the main control board. The single most likely fix is to inspect and replace the thermistor after checking the wiring harness for corrosion, breaks, or a poor connector fit.
Unplug the washer for a full reset, wait 15 to 30 minutes, then reconnect power and restart a normal cycle. This clears temporary control glitches and lets the PCB reboot. If the tE code returns immediately or during heating, continue to the next step.
The most common real fix is checking the thermistor and its wiring harness. On many LG washers, the temperature sensor is mounted near the heater or tub assembly, and a bad sensor can send out-of-range resistance values to the control board. Tighten any loose connector and replace the thermistor if testing shows it is open, shorted, or far outside specification.
If the sensor checks good, perform a deeper diagnostic on the harness and main control board. Look for rubbed wires, moisture damage, burnt PCB spots, or connector pin corrosion that interrupts the signal. If wiring continuity is good and the error persists, the control board may not be reading the sensor correctly.
On an LG Washer tE error points to a temperature sensing fault. The control board monitors the thermistor to track water or internal system temperature during the wash cycle, and if that sensor signal becomes too high, too low, open, or unstable, the washer stops and displays tE to prevent overheating, poor wash performance, or control damage.
Technically, the thermistor is a temperature-sensitive resistor. Its resistance changes as temperature changes, and the PCB uses that signal to decide whether heating is normal. If the thermistor fails, the wiring harness develops high resistance, or the connector oxidizes, the control cannot calculate temperature accurately and triggers the error.
In some LG washer designs, the tE code can also be linked to a heater circuit issue or a faulty main control board input. That is less common than a bad sensor, but it becomes more likely if the washer intermittently works, trips the code only during warm cycles, or shows visible signs of heat or moisture damage around the control area.
The thermistor is the most common cause of an LG washer tE error. Over time, the sensor can drift out of range, go open circuit, or short internally, causing the control board to see an impossible temperature reading.
The harness between the thermistor and the main PCB can loosen from vibration or develop damaged insulation. A partially broken conductor, corroded terminal, or weak connector fit can interrupt the low-voltage sensor signal and trigger tE even when the sensor itself is still good.
Washers operate in a humid environment, and moisture can corrode terminals near the tub, heater, or control board. Corroded pins increase resistance and create unstable readings that the control interprets as a sensor failure.
If the thermistor and harness test correctly, the problem may be on the PCB. A failed input circuit, damaged solder joint, or board component issue can prevent the control from processing the thermistor signal properly.
On models with a water heating element, a heater fault can create abnormal temperature changes that confuse the control logic. This is less common, but if heating is erratic or the washer stops specifically on hot or warm settings, the heater circuit should also be checked.
Follow the steps below one at a time — many error codes can be fixed faster than they look.
Tools you may need: screwdriver, multimeter, flashlight
Safety warning: Disconnect power before opening any panels or touching internal components.
Start with a hard reset. Unplug the washer, leave it disconnected for 15 to 30 minutes, then plug it back in and run a short cycle. If the code was caused by a temporary software fault or voltage glitch, the washer may return to normal operation.
Access the thermistor area based on the washer design. On many LG units, the sensor is attached near the tub housing or heating assembly and connects with a small two-wire harness. Use a flashlight to inspect the connector for looseness, detergent residue, rust, or signs of heat damage.
Disconnect the thermistor connector and inspect the terminals closely. If the pins are green, blackened, or wet, clean and dry the connection before reassembling. If the harness is pinched, cut, or rubbed through against metal or plastic edges, repair the damaged section or replace the harness.
Test the thermistor with a multimeter on the resistance setting. The exact resistance value varies by temperature, but the reading should be stable and change logically with temperature rather than showing open line, dead short, or erratic jumps. If the sensor reads open, shorted, or far outside expected range at room temperature, replace it.
Check wiring continuity from the thermistor connector back to the main control board. A wire can look intact but still be broken internally from repeated vibration. If continuity is poor or intermittent when the harness is gently moved, stop there and repair the harness before replacing more expensive parts.
If your LG washer model has a heating element, inspect that circuit as well. Look for a grounded heater, burnt connector, or visible signs of overheating near the heater terminals. A heater problem can cause abnormal thermal feedback and contribute to repeated tE faults during heated cycles.
Inspect the main PCB for obvious failure signs such as burnt spots, swollen capacitor tops, cracked solder joints, or melted connector housings. If the sensor and wiring test good but the control still reports tE, the board may have a failed thermistor input circuit. At this point, replacement or board-level diagnosis is usually best handled by a professional technician.
Call for service if you are unable to safely access the sensor, if the machine still shows tE after thermistor replacement, or if you find board damage. Professional diagnosis is also recommended when the washer has multiple error codes, power issues, or evidence of water intrusion into the control area.
Error OE — the washer is not draining properly, usually due to a clogged drain pump filter, blocked hose, or failing pump.
Error IE — the machine is not filling with water correctly because of low water supply, a blocked inlet screen, or a faulty inlet valve.
Error LE — the motor is overloaded or the control detects a rotor, stator, or wiring problem in the drive system.
Error UE — the load is unbalanced, preventing the washer from spinning safely at full speed.
Error FE — the washer senses an overfill condition, often linked to a stuck water inlet valve or a pressure sensor issue.
Error PE — the pressure sensor circuit is not reporting the correct water level to the control board.
Yes, you can try a reset first by unplugging the washer for 15 to 30 minutes and then restarting it. That can clear a temporary PCB glitch, but if the tE code comes back, the problem is usually a thermistor, wiring harness, or control issue that needs testing.
Usually no, or it may stop partway through the cycle. The control board uses temperature feedback to protect the washer, so it will often cancel heating or shut the cycle down when it sees an invalid thermistor signal. Continuing to force operation is not recommended.
The cost depends on the failed part. A thermistor repair is usually one of the less expensive fixes, while a main control board replacement costs more. Labor increases if the washer must be disassembled deeply to reach the sensor, heater circuit, or PCB area.
No. The thermistor is a sensor that measures temperature, while the heating element actually warms the water on applicable models. They work together, but the tE code most often relates to the sensor signal or its wiring rather than the heater itself.
Yes. The thermistor sends a low-voltage resistance signal to the control board, and even a slightly loose, corroded, or damaged connector can distort that signal. That is why checking the wiring harness and terminals is one of the first and most important diagnostic steps.
Stop if you find burnt wiring, water inside the control area, a damaged PCB, or if electrical testing is outside your comfort level. You should also call a technician if the thermistor tests good but the error remains, since that often points to board-level diagnosis or a harder-to-trace harness fault.
Try these recommended tools — used by thousands to solve the same issue:
As an Amazon Associate / affiliate partner we may earn from qualifying purchases.
Browse More Fixes