Samsung Washer error code 5E means the washer is not draining water within the expected time, usually because the drain pump filter is clogged or the drain hose is blocked. The single most likely fix is to clean the drain pump filter and check the hose for kinks or debris, then restart the cycle.
Unplug the washer from the power outlet and leave it off for 15 to 30 minutes. This resets the main control board and can clear a temporary drain detection fault. Plug it back in and run a short drain or spin cycle to see if the code returns.
Open the pump filter access door, drain any trapped water, and clean the filter thoroughly. On many Samsung washers, lint, coins, hairpins, and fabric debris collect in the pump trap and restrict water flow. Also inspect the drain hose for kinks or a clog at the standpipe connection.
If the washer still shows 5E, check the drain pump, wiring harness, and pressure sensing system more closely. A weak pump motor, damaged impeller, blocked air chamber, or control board signal issue can prevent the PCB from confirming that the tub has emptied. At that point, electrical testing with a multimeter is the next step.
On a Samsung Washer, error code 5E indicates a drain failure. The control board starts the drain pump and expects the water level sensor, often called the pressure sensor or pressure switch system, to report that the tub water level has dropped within a programmed time window. If the water remains in the tub too long, the PCB stops the cycle and displays 5E.
This fault is usually mechanical, not electronic. In most cases, the drain pump is running but cannot move water because the pump filter is packed with debris, the drain hose is pinched, or the household standpipe is restricted. It can also happen when the pump motor is humming but the impeller is jammed or broken, so the washer sounds active but still does not drain correctly.
Less commonly, Samsung Washer 5E can be triggered by a faulty pressure sensor, a blocked pressure hose, damaged wiring harness connections, or a failed main control board relay. If the sensor does not accurately report the water level, the washer may think water is still in the tub even after draining. That is why both the drain path and the electrical feedback system matter when diagnosing this code.
This is the most common cause of Samsung Washer 5E. Small objects like coins, buttons, lint, and hair can collect in the pump filter and choke off water flow, causing slow or incomplete draining.
If the hose behind the washer is bent, crushed, or packed with residue, the pump cannot push water out efficiently. A partial blockage may let some water out but not fast enough for the control board’s timed drain routine.
The drain pump may receive power but still fail mechanically. A worn motor winding, seized shaft, or broken impeller blade reduces pumping force and often causes humming, rattling, or very slow draining.
The pressure sensor monitors tub water level through an air tube connected to the tub chamber. If that hose is blocked, split, or disconnected, the washer may misread the water level and continue showing 5E even when the tub is nearly empty.
Loose connectors, corrosion, or a damaged wiring harness between the drain pump, sensor, and PCB can interrupt normal operation. In rarer cases, a failed relay or circuit on the main control board prevents the pump from energizing correctly or reading the sensor signal.
Follow the steps below one at a time — many error codes can be fixed faster than they look.
Tools you may need: screwdriver, multimeter, flashlight
Safety warning: Disconnect power before opening any panels or touching internal components.
Perform a full reset first. Unplug the washer for 15 to 30 minutes, then restore power and try a drain or spin cycle. If the tub still contains water or the code comes back quickly, move to the physical drain checks.
Drain the washer manually and clean the pump filter. Open the lower service panel, place towels or a shallow tray under the drain area, and slowly remove the emergency drain cap or filter cap to release trapped water. Pull out the filter and remove lint, thread, coins, and any sludge that could restrict the pump housing.
Inspect the drain hose from end to end. Make sure it is not kinked behind the washer, installed too far down into the standpipe, or clogged with detergent residue and fabric debris. If needed, remove the hose and flush it with water until it flows freely.
Listen to the drain pump during a drain cycle. A healthy pump usually makes a steady motor sound and moves water quickly. If you hear a hum with little or no water movement, or grinding from the pump area, the impeller may be jammed or the pump motor may be failing.
Access the drain pump assembly if the filter and hose are clear. Check for debris deeper inside the pump housing, and inspect the impeller for looseness, breakage, or resistance. If the impeller is damaged or the motor shaft binds, the pump should be replaced.
Test the pump and wiring with a multimeter. Verify the wiring harness is seated firmly and look for burnt connectors, corrosion, or broken wires. If the washer sends voltage to the pump during drain but the pump does not run properly, the pump is defective; if no voltage is present, the fault may be in the control board, wiring, or sensor circuit.
Check the pressure sensor hose and air chamber. Make sure the small hose is attached, not cracked, and not blocked by soap residue or debris. If the drain path is clear and the pump works, but the washer still reports water in the tub, stop here and call a professional to test the pressure sensor and main PCB safely.
Error 4E — water supply error indicating the washer is not filling properly within the expected time.
Error UE — unbalanced load error meaning the washer cannot stabilize the drum for spin.
Error LE — leak or low water level protection error, often linked to a drain or tub water loss issue.
Error OE — overflow error showing the washer detects too much water in the tub.
Error DE — door error meaning the door is open, unlocked, or not being detected correctly.
Error 3E — motor or tachometer-related fault that affects drum movement and cycle operation.
Yes. Unplug the washer for 15 to 30 minutes, then restart it and run a drain or spin cycle. This can clear a temporary control board glitch, but if the 5E code returns, the washer likely has a real drain restriction, pump problem, or sensor issue that needs inspection.
Usually not. If the washer cannot drain within the programmed time, the same code will often return on the next cycle. Running more cycles with standing water can strain the drain pump and may leave clothing wet, so it is better to clean the filter and check the hose first.
If the problem is only a clogged filter or hose, the repair may cost nothing but your time. If the drain pump, pressure sensor, or PCB needs replacement, repair cost varies by labor rates and part pricing. Pump-related service is generally far less expensive than replacing the entire washer.
No. A washer showing 5E is not draining correctly, so continuing to use it can leave water in the tub and may cause repeated cycle failures. Shut it off, drain the water safely, and correct the blockage or component failure before regular use.
A humming noise usually means the drain pump motor is receiving power but cannot move water. The most common reasons are a jammed impeller, debris in the pump housing, or a blockage in the drain filter or hose. It can also indicate a weak pump motor that needs replacement.
Call a technician if the filter and hose are clear, the pump area is clean, and the code still returns. You should also get professional help if you find damaged wiring, suspect a pressure sensor fault, or need live-voltage testing at the pump or main control board.
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